By Gaia Civardi
I know many people who, just like me, have been spellbound by the endless rock climbing beauty of Val Masino. But what about winter? I never even took it into consideration to spend the cold months in the valley. It is generally only boulderers that climb here in the winter, rope and winter climbers will normally go elsewhere.
My boyfriend Andrés, always told me stories about his winter adventures in the valley, but I never really believed him, until I experienced my first real winter splitting my time between Milan and Val Masino.
Once again, I found myself amazed by the possibilities that this place offers. So many ice climbing options, and challenging mixed climbing routes. To be honest, I am also a little pissed. How is it possible that such a stunning place is so overlooked compared to other well-known spots?
This blog post is meant to be a small practical guide to ice climbing in Val Masino. It is practically impossible to list all the possible climbs of the valley in this single post, so I am trying to make a selection.
Valle dell’Oro – Cascate
You can easily reach Valle dell’Oro from Bagni di Masino, where you can park your car. If there is significant snow or ice on the road, the road could be closed adding an hour to the approach (even with the road open, snow chains could be necesary) . This area is well-suited for beginners.
From the parking spot, follow the trail toward Rifugio Omio until you reach a junction leading to Alpe Ligoncio. By this point, you should already be able to see the various icefalls. The options here are all close to each other:
- Prima Cascata dell’Oro (WI3+, 70m)
- Seconda Cascata dell’Oro (WI2+, 300m)
- Quarta Cascata dell’Oro (WI3, 300m)
Be cautious after heavy snowfall, as the easier climbs may become completely buried. You can either rappel or hike to the top and follow the trail back to Rifugio Omio. The average altitude is 1600m, with a northeast exposure, meaning the area receives little direct sunlight.
La Pioda
La Pioda is an excellent choice for those looking for a more challenging climb. To get there, drive to Val di Mello and park near Gatto Rosso. From there, walk through the valley before beginning the ascent to Casera Alpe Pioda. Depending on snow conditions—especially in the final section—the approach can take up to three hours. However, the effort is well worth it, as you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views and stunning icefalls.
Below are some of the most notable climbs in this area. All of these are north-facing.
- Burian (WI4, 90m) – The easiest route in the area, though its first pitch is also the most challenging.
- Samsara (WI5, 120m) – A delicate, rarely-formed icefall that, when in condition, is truly spectacular. It is highly technical, so come prepared with experience and shorter ice screws.
- Magic Mushroom (WI5, 120m) – One of the most iconic climbs in the valley—a massive and demanding icefall.
Val di Mello
Val di Mello truly has it all. This section highlights a few ice climbs that are easily accessible from the valley. The parking area is near Gatto Rosso, right at the entrance to Val di Mello.
The first icefall you’ll encounter is Durango, located on the right side of the valley. This season (2024-2025), it has not fully formed and does not appear climbable. However, in good conditions, it offers an impressive 350m route at WI4.
For a more demanding adventure, continue past Rifugio Luna Nascente, cross a small bridge, and enter Val Temola. Look for a faint path marked by slings around trees, then follow the steep trail through the narrow valley. As you exit the woods, you’ll spot the most striking icefall in the area:
- L’Altra Faccia della Valle (WI6, 60m) – The most stunning icefall in the valley.
- Ladri di Mello (WI6, 60m) – A technical and rewarding climb, to the left of L’altra Faccia della Valle.
- Stella Filante (WI4+, 60m) – A great option for those looking for a slightly less demanding climb.
- Romilla (WI4, 280m) – A longer route with a more moderate grade.
- Unknown Icefall (WI3+, 120m) – A mystery route that Andrés and I climbed, offering a fun and accessible challenge
Valle dell’Oro – La Sfinge
La Sfinge is an iconic summit visible from San Martino located above Rifugio Omio. As well as it’s asthetical beauty, La Sfinge is a good winter objective for being one of the easier to reach alpine walls in Val Masino.
Winter Bramani (M4, 250) – The easier way up this peak is by the couloir that forms at the left of the North ridge (which is where the Bramani route passes through during the summer).
Other Possibilities – Last winter Jacopo and Andres went up through the middle of this face with a perceived grade of M6, and many other lines are still waiting to be climbed.
Disclaimer
This blog post is not a comprehensive guide to the ice climbs in Val Masino, as there are many more routes beyond those listed here. We have chosen to include only the icefalls and routes that we or close friends have recently climbed. For a more extensive reference on ice climbing in the region, we recommend consulting the following guides:
- Alpine Ice 1, Le più belle cascate di ghiaccio delle Alpi. M. Sertori.
- Specchi di Ghiaccio: Ice Climbing in Valtellina, Valchiavenna, Engadina. A. Gaddi.
As always, conditions can change rapidly in the mountains, so be sure to assess the ice and weather carefully before attempting any climbs. Stay safe and enjoy the adventure!
Andrés Pesqueira 